Alessandro Michele made an unforgettable entrance into the fashion world with his runway debut at Valentino, setting the stage in a lavishly transformed space dubbed the “Pavillon des Folies.” In the rapid-fire arena of social media, where swift opinions often lead the charge, some may interpret “folies” as an indication of unrestrained Michele magic, with the looming shadow of the infamous G word shadowing their critiques. Perhaps by invoking this term, Michele was eagerly inviting such a response, a bet he confidently took from a position of having created something truly exquisite. While he might be too humble to declare it, allow me to voice that sentiment on his behalf.
His debut for Valentino may not echo the monumental impact of his initial collection for Gucci—after all, that kind of serendipitous brilliance only strikes once in a lifetime. However, we were treated to a collection replete with Michele’s signature style, elevated by an air of luxurious grace, effortless execution, remarkable craftsmanship, and sheer visual beauty. It was a powerful reminder of a creative force that had been notably absent for a while. In the wake of his departure, the industry pivoted towards a phase of subtlety and muted opulence, but this showcase served as a refreshing wake-up call, underscoring how vital excitement is to the essence of fashion. In the words of Jacopo Venturini, the CEO who brought Michele to Valentino, this moment captured an “urgent need to return to creating desires and emotions.” And Michele has once again proven that he is an unsurpassed virtuoso in that realm.
As guests entered the expansive venue on Sunday, they were greeted by a surreal landscape filled with oversized furniture, captivating art pieces, and striking sculptures—all adorned in ethereal, gauzy fabric that blurred the outlines of the space. This environment felt less like a mere fashion show and more like an entry into a reverie, complete with a shattered mirror floor that amplified the dreamlike ambiance. This cinematic backdrop symbolized a life on pause, mirroring the emotions Michele shared with me regarding his transition into Valentino’s “house” upon being appointed as creative director in April. He articulated a profound connection to the brand, often feeling its history and legacy echoing in his design work. This rich tapestry of inspiration manifested itself vibrantly on the runway, showcasing a lavish outpouring of ruffles, bows, brocades, shimmering embroideries, gilded lace, polka dots, and a plethora of accessories that exude Michele’s fervent tastes—an extravaganza of adornment that included beautifully fringed and embroidered elements, and even pieces emblazoned with the “V,” a logo that paradoxically stands as both one of the most recognizable and least intrusive within the fashion lexicon.
It’s worth noting that Michele’s creative journey at Gucci was undeniably influenced by his admiration for Valentino. His showcase this weekend can thus be seen as the culmination of a long-awaited rendezvous, a melding of inspirations that allowed him to fully articulate his unique vision. With this presentation, we can firmly shift our focus to Michele’s newly defined universe. As always, he partnered with his insightful collaborator Giovanni Attili to craft a thought-provoking manifesto that accompanied the show. Their poetic musings painted a vivid and free-flowing narrative of inspiration, describing elements such as “…the magnificence of a finely embroidered dress, the long lingering of soul over flesh, the majesty of the void, the pursuit of fireflies seeking love, the scent of wet soil, the touch of organza ruffles, the miracle of libraries, the delicate layers of a watercolour.”
AH! We love!
