Historically, haute couture has been a predominantly male-centered industry since its inception in the 17th century. Yet, it has persistently been intertwined with the feminine world, often overshadowed by the intricate styles that defined women’s fashion of the era. Even as men crafted elaborate garments, the haute couture label was largely reserved for the lavish dresses designed specifically for elite women, overseen by master tailors. In contrast, female designers, known as couturières, were typically limited to creating more casual attire.
(SOPHIE CARRE)
In contemporary fashion, societal changes have led to a more distinct categorization of fashion terms. Despite haute couture continuing to operate in a male-dominated space, it primarily focuses on bespoke garments for women. The male equivalents tend to gravitate towards bespoke tailoring by establishments like Savile Row, which, although sharing a similar ethos of custom tailoring, often lacks the intricate craftsmanship and labor intensity associated with haute couture creations.
(SOPHIE CARRE)
Under the vision of artistic director Kim Jones, Dior Men has embarked on a transformative journey that honors the house’s storied couture heritage. His inaugural collection of haute couture pieces for men made its grand debut during the Winter 2024 runway show, an event inspired by the flamboyant essence of legendary ballet dancer Rudolf Nureyev. This collection closes the show with artistic nods to Nureyev’s more vibrant persona. The traditional silhouettes of menswear are reimagined to reflect movement and sport, demonstrating meticulous craftsmanship through handcrafted embroideries derived from the house’s archives of elegant ball gowns.
Among the highlights of the collection is a beautifully crafted silk crepe kimono that elegantly sealed the show. This striking piece, worn over a romper, draws its inspiration from Nureyev’s rich collection of vintage textiles and garments. The kimono is adorned with embroidered tulle ribbons that are treated to create a mesmerizing gradient of colors, giving the illusion of a continuous flow across the fabric. Additionally, a silk organza top featuring similar craftsmanship showcases this detailed artistry, allowing the ribbons to appear as if they are floating and dancing around the wearer’s torso.
It is notable that while the Winter 2024 collection signifies Jones’ debut into men’s haute couture, his prior ready-to-wear collections have long reflected an appreciation for couture craftsmanship. The rich heritage of Dior’s haute couture continues to exert a profound influence, inspiring not just designers within the house but the broader fashion community as well. Kim Jones stands uniquely positioned to redefine and integrate men’s haute couture into the mainstream fashion narrative.
