Alberta Ferretti, the renowned Italian designer and entrepreneur, has announced her departure from the role of creative director for her eponymous fashion label. This significant decision was revealed on Tuesday, marking a pivotal moment for the brand she has passionately nurtured since its inception.
In a heartfelt statement, Ferretti described her decision as “difficult, complicated, but very thoughtful,” emphasizing that it’s time for her to pave the way for a new chapter and a fresh narrative for the brand. She reassured fans and followers that an announcement regarding her successor would be made in the near future.
Despite stepping down from the creative director position, Ferretti will maintain her influential role as deputy chairman of Aeffe, the luxury fashion group she founded back in 1988. At 74 years old, Ferretti has made indelible contributions to the realm of Italian fashion, standing alongside other iconic female entrepreneurs like Miuccia Prada and Donatella Versace.
Alberta Ferretti’s fashion journey began in 1981, coinciding with the flourishing ready-to-wear market in Italy. What started as a modest family business has blossomed into a significant fashion empire. The brand is known for its sophisticated and ethereal designs, which have garnered a loyal following. Over the years, Ferretti expanded her portfolio by acquiring other notable labels like Moschino and Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, growing her family of brands to encompass around 1,300 dedicated employees.
However, in recent times, her brand and Aeffe have faced challenges. Factors such as a reliance on discount-driven wholesalers, high-priced ready-to-wear collections, an ageing customer demographic, and intense competition from globally dominant luxury groups have led to declining sales. For instance, Aeffe reported a concerning net loss of €20 million (about $22.27 million) in the first half of this year, with a striking 9.5% decrease in consolidated revenues, dropping from €352 million in 2022 to €319 million in the current financial year.
While the Alberta Ferretti brand grapples with these setbacks—evident from the retail price of a stunning golden evening gown at €3,200 on Zalando and significant discounts seen in various collections—hope lingers for a resurgence within the Aeffe group’s largest brand, Moschino. This optimism stems from the recent appointment of Argentina-born designer Adrian Appiolaza, who has previously honed his craft at esteemed fashion houses like Loewe and Chloé. Under Appiolaza’s creative direction, Moschino has begun to revitalize its image with a fresh collection that strikes a balance between the surreal, campy aesthetic for which the brand is known and a more grounded silhouette.
As the industry watches closely, many are eager to see how these changes will unfold and whether these strategic shifts will reenergize the Aeffe group as a whole.
