Ann Demeulemeester Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear

LiterallyNotBasic Team
By LiterallyNotBasic Team
3 Min Read

In an era shaped by geopolitical tensions, troubling news cycles, and the stark realities of climate change, many designers in the high-end fashion world have embraced a philosophy of lightness and escapism. However, Stefano Gallici has taken a different path. As the creative force behind a luxury brand, Gallici turns to nostalgia, channeling a longing for simpler, carefree times into his latest collection.

Inspired by his teenage years, when he spent long summer days playing guitar with his band and spinning vinyl records, Gallici merges his passion for music with fashion. His spring collection is a nod to these formative experiences, with a clear influence from Fleetwood Mac’s 1977 album *Rumours*. The nostalgic references don’t stop at music, though—the collection as a whole embodies a delicate blend of rawness and sophistication that has become Gallici’s signature.

The designs are a striking juxtaposition of textures, layering, and unexpected pairings. From hefty leather double-breasted coats to sleeveless biker jackets, Gallici offsets the rugged with the refined, pairing them with printed silk shirts and broderie anglaise pieces. Luxury fabrics like velvet and crisp cotton add depth, while raw-cut hems on airy knits bring an edge. Even the collection’s rigid silhouettes, characterized by broad-shouldered tailoring, are softened by ethereal shirts adorned with removable lace handkerchiefs, tied effortlessly around the models’ necks.

Gallici also revisits the brand’s iconic elongated silhouette, embracing fluid fabrics and slouchy proportions. Sun-kissed jersey and denim materials contribute a lived-in, carefree vibe that echoes the designer’s youthful inspiration. This fusion of elegance and ease offers a fresh perspective in luxury fashion, appealing to a new generation of fashion enthusiasts.

While the collection shines overall, not every piece hits the mark. A pale lilac dress with an asymmetric skirt, for example, seemed more conceptual than practical. Yet, Gallici’s willingness to take risks signals his growing confidence in shaping the brand’s future.

What truly sets Gallici apart in the luxury brand space is his ability to draw on unconventional influences, rooted in punk rock and indie music, rather than the fleeting trends of streetwear or social media. By staying true to these influences, he’s carving out a niche for fashion consumers seeking more than just aesthetics—they’re looking for a sense of community. Gallici’s initiatives, like the “Kids” cultural project and visual diary, highlight his commitment to fostering that community, with models like Wyatt and Fletcher Shears from the rock band The Garden embodying the spirit of his vision.

Ultimately, beyond his stunning designs, it is Gallici’s focus on creating a unique cultural identity that marks his most significant contribution to the  high-end fashion world.

 

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