Olivier Rousteing’s Spring Show for Balmain: A Blend of Fashion and Beauty
Olivier Rousteing’s latest spring show for Balmain marked a significant moment as it coincided with the official unveiling of an exciting new perfume range developed in collaboration with Estée Lauder Companies. Backstage, Rousteing passionately expressed his belief that the boundaries between the realms of fashion and beauty will continue to blur and evolve in fascinating and unpredictable manners. “I wanted to meld the beauty world into the fashion world, and I sincerely believe that this fusion will represent a compelling direction for the future,” he stated, signaling his vision for an innovative approach to style.
Rousteing’s unique perspective was evident when he made waves as a guest couturier at Jean Paul Gaultier’s Fall 2022 collection, where he astounded audiences—and nearly broke the internet—with his designs. His glass top drew inspiration from the recognizable torso-shaped Le Male perfume bottle, while a skirt alluded to the iconic tin-can packaging of the fragrance. This daring blend of elements demonstrated his capacity to merge the worlds of fashion and scent artfully.
At the recent Balmain show, the integration of perfume iconography was elegantly nuanced. The makeup-toned silk satin hinted at a future lingerie collection, cleverly playing with themes of allure and femininity. In contrast, the unmistakable influence of the brand’s upcoming lozenge-shaped perfume bottles was boldly illustrated through bustier bodices crafted with grooved textures, showcasing Rousteing’s intent to weave together the tangible and the olfactory.
The spotlight shone on Les Éternels de Balmain, a collection featuring eight distinct fragrances, which hit select counters at the end of August. With potential retail sales reaching up to $50 million in its inaugural year, this new line is set to make a significant impact in the industry. Furthermore, Rousteing hinted at future expansions into makeup with the inclusion of striking red lips and lacquered nails presented as vibrant, shimmering embroideries on evening gowns, elegant cocktail dresses, jumpsuits, and chic cropped jackets marked by distinct, exaggerated shoulders.
In candid interactions with journalists, Rousteing reflected on his contrarian approach to fashion. He has navigated his path while others embraced the prevailing trends of minimalism, streetwear, normcore, and quiet luxury. Throughout his illustrious 14-year tenure at Balmain, he has remained committed to the bold silhouettes characterized by the don’t-mess-with-me shoulder aesthetics and intricate couture craftsmanship. Rousteing consistently incorporates familiar motifs such as Breton stripes, textured tweeds, and luxurious gold hardware—hallmarks of French fashion rooted in the legacy of Pierre Balmain since 1945.
“Amidst an era where the fashion industry seems to grapple with its direction, I believe it’s essential to reconnect with your origins before attempting to forge something new,” he asserted, donning a jacket that mirrored the striking shoulder designs showcased on the runway. “The fundamental principle of fashion lies not in being trend-focused, but in being true to oneself. This marks an intriguing shift; during my youth, I struggled to fit in, striving to be ‘the cool kid.’”
At the age of 38, Rousteing remains a vigorous advocate for inclusivity within the fashion landscape. He recalled the barriers he faced upon entering the industry in 2011, standing out as the sole Black designer in a major French luxury house. “I fought for so long to instigate change,” he reminisced. “Certainly, the struggle persists, but I’ve since embraced new causes to champion.”
His advocacy has evolved to encompass age inclusivity as well, reflected in his recent casting choices that spanned generations, showcasing models from their early twenties to their seventies. The radiant Paulina Porizkova, at the age of 59, led the finale, emerging first in the lingerie segment, and shared a heartfelt embrace with Rousteing, encapsulating the show’s spirit of diversity and empowerment.
For additional reviews and insights on the Paris Spring 2025 collections, please click here.
