This season in Paris saw a major shift toward bold opulence, with Alessandro Michele making a grand debut at Valentino, signaling the end of the quiet luxury trend. The excitement surrounding the show was huge, as it became one of the most sought-after tickets of the week. Michele’s first collection was widely seen as a step back into the world of maximalism.
Rickie de Sole, Nordstrom’s vice president and fashion director, described it as “a joyful parade of frills and must-have accessories.” The collection’s vibrant patterns and intricate designs brought an energy that filled the entire event.
Balancing this exuberance were softer styles, such as Chemena Kamali’s lace pieces at Chloé and Jonathan Anderson’s floral and hoop skirts at Loewe. These dreamy designs added a delicate, feminine touch to the overall tone of the week.
“We’re seeing a clear shift in trends,” said Joseph Tang, fashion director at Holt Renfrew. The quiet luxury trend is giving way to a bold, carefree spirit that celebrates individuality.
Alongside Valentino, Anthony Vaccarello’s brocade and boho glam at Saint Laurent brought a fresh sense of richness. Linda Fargo, senior vice president of the fashion office at Bergdorf Goodman, noted, “It was an exciting change from the safer, quieter looks we’ve gotten used to.”
Key pieces from Valentino and Saint Laurent included ruffled dresses, turbans, whimsical cat-shaped handbags, and Yves Saint Laurent-inspired suits, a nod to the brand’s history.
The lingerie-as-daywear trend also stood out, with garter belts from Balenciaga, sheer lace bloomers at Chloé, and slip dresses at Dries Van Noten and Miu Miu. Tailored looks inspired by menswear made a strong appearance at Stella McCartney, Victoria Beckham, and Sacai, offering a nice balance to the season’s playful vibe.
Color choices ranged from soft pastels, earthy tones, and rich burgundy to vibrant blues, giving each collection its unique twist.
Retail buyers noted that many brands are working hard to stand out in a competitive market. Labels like The Row, Schiaparelli, Miu Miu, and Gabriela Hearst have solidified their unique identities.
Looking ahead, some retailers are planning modest increases in spending, while others are playing it safe, considering consignment deals. Shoppers are willing to invest in special, high-quality pieces that resonate emotionally. Event dressing is becoming more important, signaling a more experience-focused approach to fashion.
As Joseph Tang summed up, “Paris was all about embracing your main character energy. We left feeling inspired to dress up and dive into the new spring fashion trends of self-expression.”
