Chemena Kamali has embarked on her journey as Chloé’s creative director with a clear mission: to reconnect the brand with its core identity, inspired by its founder Gaby Aghion and elevated by Karl Lagerfeld during his legendary time at the house. Kamali’s deep understanding of Chloé’s heritage comes from her previous experience working under Phoebe Philo and Clare Waight Keller at the brand. Now, just a year into her role as creative director, she’s putting her own stamp on the label.
Her debut runway show last September made a strong impression, and her subsequent collection was a hit, offering a softer, sunlit aesthetic. On Thursday morning, Kamali continued her success with a show that radiated femininity and optimism. Held at the Tennis Club de Paris, the presentation featured tropical plants hanging from the rafters, while models emerged through a wall of glass bricks bathed in warm yellow light. The ethereal setting was accompanied by the haunting voice of Elizabeth Fraser, adding to the show’s enchanting atmosphere.
The front row was filled with notable Chloé admirers, including Sienna Miller, Natalia Vodianova, Liya Kebede, and Jessica Miller, all perfectly dressed in romantic blouses, high-waisted trousers, and platform clogs—seamlessly blending into the dreamy world Kamali created.
The collection itself was a celebration of Chloé’s DNA. Delicate lace blouses, breezy prairie dresses, and sharply tailored pantsuits channeled the house’s effortless elegance. Kamali also drew inspiration from the archives, reinterpreting Gaby Aghion’s playful bubble silhouettes from the late ’50s and floral, lingerie-inspired designs from the ’70s. These vintage elements were updated with a modern twist, including quirky bloomers, boyish shorts, and lace-trimmed henley knits that reflected Kamali’s own style.
Kamali also played with contrasts, reworking puff-sleeved blouses into sturdy chore jackets and introducing cropped suede toppers with structured shoulders and dramatic backs—blending feminine grace with strength. Accessories were equally whimsical, with clam-shaped leather bags adorned with gold charms, like broken shells and playful brand motifs, adding a sense of humor to the collection.
The show closed with Kamali herself taking a bow in wide-legged jeans, sneakers, and a neatly tailored blouse—an embodiment of the Chloé girl. In an era where fashion often feels like a game of musical chairs, it was refreshing to see a designer celebrated for her vision rather than facing criticism. Kamali’s joyful approach to design is a testament to her creativity and a bright future for Chloé.
