The atmosphere was deeply emotional among the fashion enthusiasts as they gathered for the presentation of Dries Van Noten’s women’s runway collection, the first since the designer announced his retirement in March. The sentiment was palpable, with some attendees visibly moved, reflecting the profound impact Van Noten has had on the industry.
During the moments leading up to the show, an editor fondly shared a memory of a stunning skirt that she purchased for her wedding wardrobe nearly twenty-four years ago from Barneys New York. To her surprise, she had recently spotted the same iconic piece being worn by Tory Burch, showcasing its timeless appeal. Another guest remarked on their unwavering satisfaction with every Dries Van Noten piece they had ever owned, highlighting the designer’s enduring legacy in their wardrobe.
Dries Van Noten himself was present in the audience, according to brand representatives, making this event even more significant. Despite being there to support his Antwerp studio team, who crafted the spring 2025 collection, he opted for a low-key presence, quickly retreating to the airport immediately after the show, allowing the focus to remain on the new designs.
Yet, the essence of Van Noten was unmistakable throughout the collection. He had personally scrutinized and approved each piece, which reflected many signature elements from his iconic body of work over the years. The collection was replete with luxurious textiles and intricate embroideries infused with exotic influences, showcasing a bold clash of colors and prints that has often inspired leading interior designers worldwide. The interplay of masculine and feminine aesthetics was evident, particularly noted in the piped printed Bermuda shorts which served as stylish alternatives to traditional trousers in several outfits.
However, despite the impressive array of garments on display, some may argue that a certain magic was somewhat missing. The drama, theatricality, and expressive flair that has, in the past, characterized Van Noten’s works felt less pronounced, as the presentation lacked a standout takeaway that redefined approaches to dressing, styling everyday pieces, or inspiring bold home designs.
The design team effectively tapped into contemporary trends from both high fashion and street style, integrating elements of lingerie-inspired wear into the collection. Audacious slip dresses, delicate camisoles, and beautifully draped scarf-like skirts in rich jewel-tone silks adorned with elegant lace detailing were notably featured, alongside vibrantly colored lace bralettes which peered enticingly from under oversized, mannish blazers. Additionally, the category of leather was also embraced boldly with the introduction of a strikingly deep green blouson jacket.
Rather than conventional suiting, the collection showcased column dresses cinched at the back of the waist in a manner reminiscent of a tailored men’s gilet, proving to be a fresh perspective on modern elegant attire. Throughout his career, Van Noten has had a penchant for creating blazer shirts—ingenious garments that blend suiting aesthetics with versatility—and these made a notable appearance in this collection alongside emphatic outerwear, featuring a standout long frock coat in vibrant hues of orange and pink damask.
Brushstroke florals and animal prints, long hallmark elements of Van Noten’s design lexicon, were also prominently showcased in this collection, albeit with a heavier hand than usual. One particularly striking piece was a sleeveless dress adorned with a sequined snake print, elegantly complemented by a red beaded neckline reminiscent of a lei that dipped gracefully at the front, embodying a chic sophistication.
As the show drew to a close, a powerful sleeveless coat with a nipped waist was beautifully accentuated by delicate silver embroidery that dangled from the shoulders. The intricate detail evoked the image of a complex root system, symbolizing the potential for growth and continuation for this celebrated Belgian fashion house, even as it transitions into a new chapter beyond its esteemed founder.
