The atmosphere was charged with a palpable sense of expectancy as fashion enthusiasts and celebrities alike gathered for Alessandro Michele’s much-anticipated debut at Valentino, held on a stunning Sunday afternoon in Paris. The excitement surrounding this event made it one of the most sought-after invitations of the entire fashion season. However, in a remarkable departure from the norm, Michele chose to forgo the opulent salons of the Salomon de Rothschild hôtel particulier, a location traditionally associated with Valentino shows, and instead opted for a more unconventional venue set on the fringes of the city. He dubbed the event Pavillon des Folies – The Crazy Pavilion.
The show was staged at the Dojo de Paris arena, and expectations ran high. Many anticipated a vast, somewhat sterile environment typical of a judo hall, which would starkly contrast with Valentino’s signature elegance. Yet, true to Michele’s unpredictable nature, attendees were greeted by an enchanting and mysterious ambiance once they walked through a dimly lit hallway adorned with black velvet. The space transformed into a surreal setting, illuminated by soft lighting and accompanied by haunting melodies. Furniture, statues, and grand pianos were carefully draped in white cloth, reminiscent of something you might see in the eerie world of Stranger Things or the forgotten estate of Miss Havisham. This elaborate setup seemed to symbolize the confluence of past and future, inviting speculation about whether the shrouded items represented the veils of history making way for new artistic beginnings.
As the show commenced, an illustrious guest list drenched in glamour filled the seats, each individual soaking up the intoxicating atmosphere. Harry Styles was spotted casually tucked between Carla Bruni-Sarkozy, who radiated elegance in a chic white Valentino redingote, and Damiano David of Måneskin, captivating everyone in an off-white suit that cleverly masked his numerous tattoos. Italian filmmaker Paolo Sorrentino comfortably settled next to Giancarlo Giammetti, Valentino Garavani’s longtime partner. Observers noticed Giammetti animatedly FaceTiming the finale to Valentino, who likely enjoyed the show from his opulent residence in Rome.
When the fashion showcase kicked off, all eyes turned toward the catwalk, while the audience’s energy intensified. The music, a beautifully rendered remix of the 17th-century madrigal Passacaglia della Vita, enveloped the audience, delivering a timeless message of joy and hope. It didn’t take long for Alessandro Michele to weave his captivating creativity into the fabric of the runway, presenting a series of stunning designs that gracefully elevated Valentino Garavani’s storied legacy into a new realm of visionary whimsy.
Florence Welch, who has long been regarded as a muse for Michele, looked utterly captivated, perhaps already envisioning which pieces she would add to her already impressive wardrobe as she donned a sumptuous caftan featuring intricate fringe and shimmering beads. Karen Elson, radiant in a custom Valentino gown—the first wedding dress Michele designed for the house—attended the show with her beautiful daughter, Scarlett White, who exuded the same ethereal quality as her mother. It was an exciting moment to see some of Michele’s closest friends and inspirations transition from Gucci’s front row to Valentino’s, including Styles, Welch, and Jared Leto, leaving fashion enthusiasts pondering if he has a unique Valentino cat-head accessory in his future.
In an infrequent public appearance, Elton John gave a standing ovation at the show’s finale, sharing the moment with Ginevra Elkann, Andrew Garfield, Salma Hayek Pinault, and Leto. The audience erupted in applause, recognizing Michele’s triumphant return to the fashion realm and celebrating the spectacle he presented.
