On Saturday afternoon, a PETA protester briefly disrupted the Hermès fashion show, though this incident went largely unnoticed by the audience gathered at the Garde Republicaine. The venue had been creatively transformed into a whimsical maze of elegantly designed rooms, featuring wood-framed canvas screens and carpets in a vibrant hue of rose bougainvillea that set the mood for the season.
Hermès has every reason to maintain a positive outlook, as the brand has outpaced many of its luxury competitors in recent months, continuing to achieve impressive double-digit growth figures.
A significant contributor to Hermès’ impressive performance is its largely logo-free aesthetic and the brand’s commitment to timeless designs that don’t shift dramatically from season to season. This approach has often been criticized as being somewhat staid and conservative. However, creative director Nadège Vanhée has successfully injected vitality into the collection, transforming the ready-to-wear line into a serious contender in the fashion sphere. This season, she pushed boundaries further by presenting a versatile, luxurious utility wardrobe infused with a hint of seductive allure while also introducing exciting new designs aimed at attracting the brand’s younger clientele. Highlights included high-waisted Hermès denim and a mix of sheer and opaque layers that embodied a modern, sporty aesthetic.
At the backstage, Vanhée emphasized that versatility was a key theme of the collection. She illustrated this concept with a stunning long umber-colored silk mesh tube skirt that featured side zippers, allowing it to be transformed from modest to daringly cheeky. This idea was reflected throughout the collection, with sheer pants, tanks, and tunics in earthy tones layered in various ways to reveal hints of skin, pleasingly accommodating a diverse range of body types.
Although some of the more traditional cotton utility pieces, like jumpsuits, anoraks, polos, and pleated pants, occasionally appeared overly complicated with an excessive number of zips, snaps, and pockets, practicality shone through in pieces like a bisque-colored calfskin coat that combined a drawstring vest, bomber jacket, and outer coat into one versatile item. Additionally, the new inside-out Birkin bag, soft enough to be crumpled and packed away in a suitcase, stood out as particularly innovative. The clog sandals showcased in the lineup also emerged as must-have items for fashion enthusiasts.
Bra tops, bandeaus, and underwear sets have made significant waves this fashion month, and Hermès was no exception. Stylish slim Medor belts were elegantly buckled at the high waists of boy shorts that peeked out from tailored trousers and rose-toned denim jeans, creating a chic and contemporary look that also provided another incentive to invest in new accessories.
Vanhée successfully reintroduced the iconic silk prints of the house to the runway, featuring a playful printed romper that certainly isn’t reminiscent of what one might expect from their mother’s wardrobe. She also masterfully combined bands of leather and organdy to create dresses that struck a perfect balance between femininity and toughness. Essentially, the collection catered to the modern woman’s desire for stylish and practical options.
