Dior couture spring/summer 1997.
It’s almost impossible to imagine now, but Nicole Kidman’s unforgettable chartreuse Dior gown at the 1997 Oscars wasn’t universally praised at the time. The dress, meticulously crafted by John Galliano for his spring/summer 1997 couture collection for Dior, featured intricate Chinoiserie-inspired embroidery, a high slit, and a distinctive sheen that made Kidman look radiant on the red carpet. However, the striking color and bold choice of couture drew mixed reactions. The famously sharp-tongued Joan Rivers reportedly quipped, “What an ugly dress!” during her live red carpet commentary, dismissing the look that would later become iconic.
Despite the initial reactions, Kidman has held this dress close to her heart. She has often cited it as a favorite, speaking to *In Vogue: The 90s* documentary about its elegance and unique artistry. “The embroidery on it, and the shape of it – everything was just so beautiful,” she said, underscoring how groundbreaking it was to bring such high-fashion couture to the Oscars. Hamish Bowles, Vogue’s global editor at large, added that it was “fashion with a capital F coming to the Oscars,” signaling a new era of Hollywood glamour where high couture designs started to make more regular red-carpet appearances.
Galliano’s “Absinthe” gown for Kidman changed the way Hollywood and the fashion world intersected. At Vogue’s recent Forces of Fashion event, Galliano reflected on that pivotal moment, sharing that Kidman’s choice helped usher in a new wave of haute couture in Hollywood, complete with stylists and partnerships that would bring luxury brands and celebrities together in unprecedented ways. “She really blew everyone away,” Galliano recalled, noting that her 1997 appearance helped ignite a larger phenomenon where couture designers and A-list actresses would collaborate, leading to lucrative brand partnerships, endorsement deals, and red-carpet styling that we see so often today.
Adding to its allure, Kidman still owns the exact gown that Galliano created for her. When a runway version of the gown was displayed at the National Gallery of Victoria in Melbourne in 2017, Kidman revealed that the piece hanging in her wardrobe is none other than the one custom-fitted by Galliano himself. “My daughters will inherit that dress,” she noted, adding to its sentimental and historical value.
With Kidman’s daughter, Sunday Rose, recently making her fashion debut on Miu Miu’s runway, the possibility of her wearing the iconic Dior gown in the future—perhaps at a major event like the Oscars—feels more exciting than ever. Over two decades later, this gown remains a testament to the synergy between couture and celebrity, showcasing how Kidman and Galliano helped transform the Oscars red carpet into a veritable fashion runway. The “Absinthe” dress, once a divisive choice, is now a celebrated piece of fashion history for all the right reasons.
