Receiving an invitation to Alessandro Michele’s debut runway show for luxury fashion brand Valentino at Paris Fashion Week felt like discovering one of Willy Wonka’s golden tickets. The anticipation surrounding this event was palpable, making it one of the most coveted shows of a season that lacked major designer debuts.
Michele crafted a visually stunning atmosphere, transforming the venue into a nostalgic wonderland. Guests, including Harry Styles, Jared Leto, Florence Welch, and Elton John, sat on plush sofas facing a cracked mirror runway, surrounded by antique objects draped in dust covers. This setting, rich in old-world charm, perfectly complemented Michele’s vision for Valentino’s Spring collection.
The show marked Michele’s first major step as creative director of the iconic Italian high-end fashion brand, which was co-founded by Valentino Garavani and Giancarlo Giammetti. With Garavani himself present to lend his support, the pressure was high to balance honoring the brand’s legacy with Michele’s signature style, famously developed during his tenure at Gucci.
Michele’s Spring collection draws heavily from the 1970s and 1980s, mixing staples like ruffles and Valentino’s signature V logo with new touches, such as bold polka dots—a theme that dominated the runway. From tailored jackets with satin bows to sheer black evening gowns, Michele effortlessly fused retro charm with modern sophistication. A highlight of the show was a delicate cream day dress with a ruffled black collar, alongside a dramatic black gown topped with a wide-brimmed hat.
Michele described the process of exploring the Valentino archives as “like swimming in the ocean,” pulling inspiration from different eras. His collection featured 85 distinct looks, each evoking the elegance of a debutante, the boldness of an ’80s socialite, and the eclectic charm of a thrift-shop find. His aesthetic, often linked to cultural icons like Margot Tenenbaum, was woven throughout the collection.
Despite the strong personal stamp, Michele remained deeply respectful of Valentino’s legacy, calling himself a custodian of the brand. Signature Valentino elements—like the iconic red tiered evening gown, kaleidoscopic prints, and couture-grade embroidery—were reimagined with Michele’s playful touch. The collection also showcased whimsical accessories, including a clutch shaped like a grumpy cat, paired with elements like turbans and colored lace tights.
While Michele’s vision may differ from his predecessor’s bold, graphic styles, his opulent, nostalgic approach aligns with Valentino’s exuberant spirit. Michele’s deep appreciation for artistry and his friendships with high-end fashion celebrities echo Garavani’s elite social circle, solidifying his place in the brand’s storied history.
The collection, titled “Pavillon des Folies,” captures Michele’s belief that fashion is an embellishment of life, blending past and present to create something both nostalgic and refreshingly modern
