For the Spring 2025 collection, designer Jun Takahashi took a bold approach by emphasizing the use of zips and fasteners to infuse volume and dramatic flair into the garments. The unveiling of this inventive collection took place amidst an inviting breakfast spread featuring Japanese vegan delicacies at Dover Street in Paris on a sunny Sunday morning.
At the heart of this season’s narrative was the innovative concept of adaptable clothing that caters to the fast-paced lifestyle of modern individuals. In their relaxed forms, these garments offered the perfect comfort for everyday wear, seamlessly transitioning from casual office attire to something far more sophisticated. With just a simple pull or adjustment, waistlines on t-shirts, bombers, and cardigans could be cinched to embrace a more polished aesthetic, showcasing versatility and style in unexpected ways.
The essence of the evening looks was underscored by the inclusion of zips and corset lacing—hallmarks of the fantastical creations one would anticipate from Takahashi. Furthermore, feminine ruffles and inverted pleats engaged in a striking juxtaposition against bodycon and bondage-inspired details, resulting in couture silhouettes that boast a unique fashion perspective quintessential to Undercover.
Complementing the collection were striking, spiky, gold leather headpieces and delicate lace face veils, which added an ethereal and angelic dimension to the overall lineup, heightening the theatricality of the presentation.
Reflecting the men’s collection, the Spring 2025 offerings for women also featured artistic prints inspired by the works of Italian painter Robert Bosisio, known for his exploration of the delicate boundaries between reality and the uncanny. Takahashi innovatively used needles on the fabric to craft a mesmerizing blurry dégradé effect that seamlessly blended various textures, enhancing the visual allure of each piece.