In a bold and innovative gesture, Demna has invited everyone to Balenciaga’s Spring 2025 show with a striking gold ring. This ring symbolizes his steadfast commitment to fashion, akin to a marriage vow. He reflects on the long journey he’s taken to achieve this level of freedom in his creative process, admitting that while he once perceived himself as fearless during his childhood, years of external fears have kept him from expressing his true emotions. During a conversation following the show, he confided, “I’m a catastrophic thinker; I don’t give myself a break. But this time, I decided to work intuitively.”
Reflecting on his breakthrough into a more liberated creative space, Demna acknowledges the significant role that therapy has played in his journey, similar to the experiences of his former collaborator, Alessandro Michele. He revisited his roots, remembering the six-year-old boy who sat at his grandmother’s kitchen table, crafting cardboard cutouts of women dressed in stylized outfits. He would host fashion shows for his family, a nostalgic ritual that permeated the essence of his Spring 2025 show. The runway became a long table filled with editors and celebrities, evoking a sense of community and sharing, much like his childhood experiences. Demna believes that fashion must have a clear point of view, stating, “Otherwise, it has nothing to offer, apart from covering us up.” He appreciated the symbolism of guests looking up at the fashion showcased on the table, contrasting the often dismissive attitude that many hold toward fashion.
This reconnection with his roots ignited a newfound naivety in Demna’s creative approach. He remarked, “I don’t remember another show like that for me. I just wanted to go wherever it brings me.” His inspiration led him on a vivid journey, starting in a boudoir and moving through memories of lingerie—a trompe l’oeil creation featuring a lacy bra, suspender belt, and stockings—that perhaps echoed his experiences shopping with his mother. The show was a fascinating exploration into Demna’s psyche, prompting viewers to engage with deeper emotions and reflections.
The collection also featured models adorned in striking, thought-provoking outfits: preacher’s wife dresses made with bondage straps, and young men in stretched-polo shirts and low-slung jeans that playfully showcased aesthetics from his teenage years and fantasies. “Not so nice, not so perfect,” he mused, suggesting he wanted to provoke an emotional response from the audience, given today’s diminishing attention spans. Moreover, he admitted to a strong inspiration from youth culture, evidenced by his designs—oversized puffers paired with jeans that challenged conventional menswear.
Highlighting his ambition, Demna delved into the historical signature cocoon silhouette of Cristobal Balenciaga, revealing his intent to breathe new life into this concept without falling into vintage clichés. He showcased models layered with clothes as if they were late for an appointment, with jackets casually draped around their waists—a representation of fashion’s spontaneity that he adores. Moments later, he introduced “clip-on” garments that simply snapped onto the models, before countering with a strikingly dramatic silk scuba sculpture worn by his muse, Eliza Douglas. “I wanted to start with almost nothing and end with this monumental sculpture in silk scuba. That’s a bit like fashion,” he explained.
This intricate journey through fashion at the Spring 2025 show was not just about aesthetics; it served as a commentary on the implications of these designs when they hit the market. While Demna’s imaginative scope is undeniably vast, some wonder if he might have exhausted his creative range in the fashion industry, as the runway presentation didn’t seem wholly revelatory. Yet, he hinted at deeper narratives longing for exploration, showing that beyond the clothing, cinematic stories are also waiting to unfold. With characters and tales that could expand far beyond the runway, Demna hinted at a wealth of creativity still brewing within him, suggesting that perhaps the true revelations of his craft might only fully manifest on the screen, just waiting for an audience to engage with them.
