Once upon a time, the phrase “ultra-thin” was used to describe watches that boasted a thickness of less than 10mm—a significant achievement that skillfully combined technical excellence, comfort, and style into a refined form. However, leading luxury watchmakers like Bvlgari have boldly redefined these parameters, creating timepieces that are thinner than a standard coin.
From 2014 to 2022, Bvlgari shattered the barriers of watchmaking thinness by setting an astounding record of eight unique milestones. These records included the title for the world’s thinnest automatic tourbillon, chronograph, and even a perpetual calendar watch. As the brand marks its 140th anniversary this year, it adds another remarkable achievement to its portfolio with the unveiling of the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, a record-setting watch measuring an astonishing 1.75mm in thickness. This feat surpasses its predecessor, the previous record-holder from 2022, which had a thickness of 1.80mm. Notably, the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC is presented as a fully functional timepiece, with only 20 individual pieces produced for each of its two versions, all accredited by the Swiss as COSC-certified.
This exceptional accomplishment was made possible through collaborative efforts between Bvlgari’s in-house watchmaking experts and the renowned movement specialist Concepto. In a remarkable engineering achievement, the Ultra COSC cleverly utilizes its case back as the movement’s main plate. To achieve that minuscule reduction of an additional tenth of a millimetre, every aspect of the watch’s architecture, from the case design to its internal mechanisms, underwent significant re-engineering, resulting in the filing of eight new patents.
Powered by the innovative BLV180 calibre, which operates at a frequency of 4Hz, this remarkable watch offers a power reserve of 50 hours. The inner workings consist of 170 precisely crafted components, each meticulously measured using advanced 1/10-micron optical systems to guarantee impeccable dimensions. The components are mounted on a tungsten carbide mainplate, chosen for its superior hardness and durability. Meanwhile, the watch’s middle case, bezel, lugs, and bracelet are constructed from sandblasted titanium, lending to the futuristic aesthetics of this exceptional timepiece.
The modern design of the Ultra series continues with this model featuring a geometric pattern on the ratchet, supplanting the QR code that adorned its earlier version. Additionally, the back of the watch is embedded with a Data Matrix code that grants exclusive insights into the watch’s intricate development process, including images and videos. The dedication to innovation extends to the intricate presentation case, designed with advanced technology that allows users to wind and set the watch at the mere push of a button, all presented through a high-tech digital interface.
In addition to the titanium variation, Bvlgari is also introducing a platinum edition of the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC. The radiant gleam of the platinum is elegantly matched with the rich blue PVD accents on the regulator dials, creating a more formal aesthetic that complements the exquisite craftsmanship. Regardless of the choice between the two, Bvlgari demonstrates once again its audacity and inventiveness in expanding the boundaries of ultra-thin watchmaking. The result is a breathtaking timepiece that seamlessly blends impressive technical achievements with striking stylistic elements.
Between The Lines
In a more whimsical celebration of its anniversary, Bvlgari presents the new Octo Finissimo Sketch models. The Executive Director of Product Creation at Bvlgari Horlogerie, Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, has brought his artistic designs to life once more, immortalizing his drawings on the watch dials.
The first Sketch editions debuted in 2022, celebrating the 10th anniversary of the Octo Finissimo collection, featuring playful hour markers, sub-dials, and the brand name doodled onto the faces of the Automatic and Chronograph GMT Automatic models. This year, Bvlgari revisits these designs with even more intricate artwork. The 40mm Automatic Sketch, available in both steel and rose gold, proudly displays a drawing of the BVL138 movement’s back instead of a traditional dial. Meanwhile, the 43mm steel Chronograph GMT showcases an open-worked view of the BVL318 movement.
With limited editions set at 70 pieces for the rose gold version and 280 for the steel variant, the Chronograph GMT Sketch is produced in only 140 pieces, assuring exclusivity for collectors and enthusiasts alike.
Time Flies
Once holding the esteemed title of the world’s thinnest tourbillon watch in 2014, the Octo Finissimo series returns with three enticing models for fans who appreciate the artistry of complex watchmaking. The new Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Manuel is now available in both rose gold and sandblasted titanium featuring black DLC. The rose gold edition radiates a classic elegance while the titanium model marries sophistication with a sporty edge, featuring contrasting rose gold hands and chapter ring.
On the other hand, the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic introduces a brand-new 40mm platinum reference. Showcasing a skeletonized movement with a micro-blasted blue finish, this model is perfectly complemented by a dark blue alligator strap. Both the manual-wind BVL 268SK and the automatic BVL 288 movements maintain their claim to fame as some of the slimmest tourbillon movements in existence, measuring a mere 1.95mm in thickness.
Night Shift
When it comes to all-black watches, a commanding design language is essential to make a lasting impression, and the iconic Octo Roma collection from Bvlgari achieves just that. The latest models, the Octo Roma Automatic and the Octo Roma Chrono, have been boldly transformed with sleek black DLC steel cases, matching black dials, and black straps. However, to ensure legibility, the indices and hands are treated with luminescent material for easy reading in any lighting condition.
The automatic version measures 41mm and utilizes the in-house BVL191 movement, offering a power reserve of 42 hours. Slightly larger, the chronograph version has a diameter of 42mm, housing the BVL399 calibre with the same power reserve, making it the inaugural model in the Octo Roma Chrono line to be fully enveloped in a black aesthetic.
Despite drawing inspiration from ancient architectural forms, these pieces are given a contemporary twist through the modern color palette and the Clous de Paris textures featured on the dials, combined with stylish rubber straps. A luxurious black alligator strap is also provided, allowing for sleek customization.
Seasonal Twists
Esteemed Japanese architect Tadao Ando, who previously collaborated with Bvlgari on the breathtakingly minimalist Octo Finissimo editions in 2020 and 2021, is back again, infusing his creative expertise into the Serpenti Tubogas series. Renowned for his profound appreciation of nature, Ando has designed four distinct Serpenti models featuring exquisite stone marquetry dials that beautifully encapsulate the essence of the four seasons.
The design for the “Natsu” model captures the sun-drenched greens of summer with its green aventurine dial, paired elegantly with a bi-metallic case of yellow gold and steel. The “Aki” model, which translates to autumn, shines with the warm golden tones of tiger’s eye, enhanced by a lush rose gold case. In keeping with the winter theme, “Fuyu” combines white mother-of-pearl with steel to reflect that season’s crispness, while “Haru” evokes the fleeting beauty of spring with a delicate pink mother-of-pearl, alongside a harmonious blend of steel and rose gold representing cherry blossoms.
The models “Haru” and “Aki” will be available exclusively in a limited 135mm twirl size, while the “Fuyu” and “Haru” are offered in both 135mm and 145mm sizes. Each timepiece is 35mm wide, equipped with quartz movements, and adorned with bezels set with 38 sparkling diamonds. Meanwhile, the casebacks carry Ando’s engraved signature along with the words “Tadao Limited Edition.” These breathtaking watches are set to be released across the upcoming year, aligning with the seasons, culminating in March 2025. Furthermore, a select run of 20 special box sets will be offered, including all four stunning creations, making them a coveted addition to any luxury watch collection.
