During this season’s Paris Fashion Week, the front row attendees made quite a statement by daringly embracing bold fashion choices, which included a trend of revealing nipples. This provocative display has created unexpected complications for media outlets attempting to navigate social media coverage of the shows.
Nicolas Di Felice, the artistic director at Courrèges, is focusing his efforts on exploring another enticing part of the human body: the back. At his recent show in Paris, numerous guests donned his innovative “magic square” tops, which are crafted from sheer nude mesh. These striking pieces cleverly cover the front of the torso while leaving the back completely exposed, making them a statement of both confidence and style.
Looking ahead to the upcoming season, Di Felice plans to take this concept even further by reducing the size of these tops to the dimensions of censor bars, ensuring that his designs can effortlessly bypass Instagram’s nipple filter. “It’s the magic bandeau,” he remarked, describing the graphic bra tops that are fastened with rubber straps, which he paired with leather pants and wrap skirts in a predominantly monochromatic color scheme.
In the current era, where the fashion world seems to encourage an anything-goes attitude towards revealing outfits, Di Felice’s approach offers a refreshing take on subtle seduction. However, it’s worth noting that not all of his designs lean toward subtlety; the opening look at his show featured a striking pod-like coat with an exaggerated shark fin hood, resembling a futuristic full-body prophylactic.
This eye-catching piece was inspired by an archival cape from 1962 and set the tone for a collection rich in aquatic themes. The runway itself was designed to resonate with the ambiance of the ocean, featuring a 28-foot-wide ocean drum that echoed the sounds of crashing waves. Guests received invitations made from silver metal shaped into a Möbius loop, symbolizing the endless cycle of fashion.
“I find the Möbius loop fascinating as it represents a concept without a beginning or an end, encapsulating the idea of infinity,” Di Felice shared in a backstage interview. “I was drawn to themes of cycles and the repetitive nature of fashion.” His fascination with geometry is reflected not only in his conceptual ideas but also in his impressive skills as a pattern-maker, which is apparent in his designs that transform bra tops into apron dresses with deeply scooped backs. One notable design, the black Infinity dress, combines a seductive cutout neckline with a spiral-shaped skirt that functions as a skort, cleverly embodying the ultimate “look, but don’t touch” aesthetic.
Moreover, Di Felice’s collection featured jackets with artfully placed slits and fabric panels that called to mind the graphical puzzles of M.C. Escher. For those seeking something more wearable, he also introduced commercially appealing items such as miniskirts with strategically slitted waistbands and the gray pants modeled by Irina Shayk, which feature zippers along the thigh for an added element of surprise.
Additionally, his wrap dresses, crafted from a single piece of fabric, were effortlessly pinned at the hip and suspended from discreet invisible corsets. Accessories included visors and earrings adorned with fishing lure feathers, adding an unexpected twist to the looks.
Since taking charge of the Courrèges label in 2020, Di Felice has garnered immense popularity for his meticulous and minimal reinterpretations of the iconic Space Age designs that were originally created by the brand’s founder, André Courrèges. This year has particularly stood out for him, as he executed a highly praised collection as guest couturier for the renowned Jean Paul Gaultier in June and is set to preside over the jury at the upcoming Hyères International Festival of Fashion and Photography next month.
However, even in the midst of success, Di Felice admitted that he grappled with a sense of monotony and even contemplated presenting 40 identical looks as a commentary on the influence of algorithms in design. Fortunately, his creative instincts prevailed, showcasing his mathematical brilliance through diverse and innovative new designs instead.
