In the ever-changing world of fashion, one truth stands out: the main objective of today’s fashion shows is often to promote and sell accessories. While this concept isn’t new, some brands are becoming increasingly transparent about their intentions.
Chloé made headlines in February with its runway debut led by creative director Chemena Kamali, showcasing a front row filled with the brand’s striking Maxime Wedges. The bold visual presentation captured the attention of fashion media, with major publications like Elle and Vogue heralding a resurgence of bohemian style and the return of wedges to the fashion forefront. Fast forward to September, Tory Burch joined the trend, dressing high-profile guests such as Mindy Kaling, Elizabeth Olsen, and Michelle Williams in its eye-catching pierced heels. This style quickly earned the title of “it” shoe, gaining attention from outlets like Elle, WhoWhatWear, and InStyle.
The images of these events painted a distinct picture, contrasting sharply with the traditional luxury front-row approach, which usually features VIP guests in thoughtfully curated outfits designed to showcase a range of products. Instead, these brands opted for a focused strategy, dramatically elevating specific items to the forefront.
This approach—where a single product oversaturates social media and the fashion scene—might feel familiar. Back in 2018, Dior created a sensation with its saddle bags, distributing them among influencers to jumpstart the relaunch of this iconic style. More recently, Miu Miu had its own moment in the spotlight with its micro-mini skirt, which saw influencers donning variations of the look at subsequent shows, reflecting a moment that was already trending due to high-profile celebrities including Nicole Kidman and Paloma Elsesser.
The strategy of streamlining product promotion can enhance a brand’s visibility in a way that captures the attention of social media algorithms and attracts press coverage. However, this approach isn’t without its challenges, particularly in the luxury sector, which thrives on the concept of exclusivity.
Brands are increasingly looking to leverage fashion shows to maximize exposure through the strategic placement and styling of products worn by VIP guests. Given the current pressures facing the luxury market, revitalizing imagery of key products at these events can provide much-needed momentum.
Gab Waller, a luxury product sourcer, noted a significant uptick in conversations among consumers regarding this season’s “it” items and styles, indicating that brands are focused on creating impactful moments.
Weighing the Risks and Rewards
When executed effectively, a product blitz can rapidly elevate a brand’s visibility and desirability. For instance, Chloé’s viral wedges reinforced a cohesive image of the Chloé girl under Kamali’s vision, while Tory Burch’s pierced shoes became emblematic of a resurgence known as “the Toryssance.” This approach cultivates a sense of community and belonging around a brand, encapsulating what InStyle termed “the viral Tory-verse.”
This individuality of the brand experience—where shoppers can identify as a Chloé girl or a Miu Miu girl—mirrors the modern consumer’s desire for thematic dressing, particularly among younger audiences, as observed by Allison Bringe, chief marketing officer at analytics firm Launchmetrics.
Nevertheless, there are risks associated with this saturated strategy. Conor Begley, chief strategy officer at influencer marketing firm CreatorIQ, pointed out that there’s a fine line between excitement and overexposure, which can lead to perceptions of cheesiness that dilute a brand’s image.
While immediate hype can generate interest, such moments are often fleeting. After Chloé’s show, there was a staggering 235% surge in searches for “wedge heels,” but these trends quickly returned to pre-event levels, according to fashion data firm Trendalytics.
In striving for rapid popularity, brands might inadvertently shortchange the longevity of an item among certain audiences. Waller suggested that the allure of exclusivity can dull with oversaturation, as consumers often gravitate toward items that carry an air of scarcity. Notably, Waller did not observe substantial demand for the Chloé wedges among her followers, a demographic skewed toward devoted fashion enthusiasts in the U.S.
In contrast, Laurent Francois, managing partner at Paris-based creative agency 180 Global, emphasized that a blitz can indeed broaden reach and create impactful visuals, but it’s important to align with the refined tastes of true luxury consumers who seek elevated products.
Ultimately, the essential factor remains that consumers must genuinely desire the items in question. Francois warned against the pitfalls of aggressive marketing that lacks credibility or fails to capture genuine interest from potential buyers.
In light of these insights, many brands are opting for a more nuanced strategy. For example, Fendi recently showcased its updated Peek-a-Boo bag at its August show. The bag appeared on the runway and was carried by several guest celebrities, with Fendi frequently featuring the bag in its Instagram content thereafter. While this approach may not have sparked viral interest, it successfully promoted a product already available for consumers to purchase.
Bringe concluded that fashion week provides a valuable platform for brands to accentuate their products, but without proactive promotion of specific items within that context, the potential impact remains negligible. Ultimately, it’s this blend of strategic emphasis and authenticity that can help brands navigate the complex landscape of modern fashion marketing.
