The highly anticipated Cubitus collection from Patek Philippe marks the brand’s first new watch line in 25 years, and its debut has caused quite a stir—albeit not as initially intended by the esteemed Swiss watchmaker.
Just days before the official launch, a leak surfaced via an advertisement in Fortune magazine, much to the chagrin of Patek Philippe. This early reveal left watch enthusiasts astounded, prompting extensive discussions on platforms like YouTube, where many questioned the authenticity of the new models. Interestingly, even seasoned collectors expressed skepticism prior to the unveiling, with some speculating whether the leak was an intentional strategy by the company. As a Patek Philippe executive noted at a pre-launch dinner in Munich, “We don’t do a lot of surprises in our strategy,” highlighting the brand’s meticulous approach.
For a luxury brand like Patek Philippe, thinking outside the norm led to the introduction of a new timepiece collection that bears an impressive resemblance to its highly celebrated Nautilus model. According to Thierry Stern, president of Patek Philippe, “You should not always reinvent everything from zero; why? Take the best of what you know and improve it.” The centerpiece of the launch is the Ref. 5822P—measuring 45 by 9.6 mm and retailing at $88,378—showcasing a navy horizontal embossed pattern, hour and minute hands, a dotted minute track, and notably similar indices. The craftsmanship continues to impress, including a diamond set on the edge of the case, this time featuring a baguette-cut to enhance the timepiece’s edgy character. A significant deviation from the Nautilus is its square-shaped octagonal case, giving it a more brutalist aesthetic. Collectors have drawn parallels to the Nautilus, Gerard Charles, and Cartier Santos Dumont models. Another unique feature is the large date display at 12 o’clock. Unlike other references in this collection, the platinum model comes with a strap made from an ultra-durable composite material styled with a fabric motif—Stern explained that while the original design included a platinum bracelet, it proved too heavy for wear.
Adding to its uniqueness is the new movement within the Ref. 5822P: the Caliber 240 PS CI J LU. This movement, derived from the 240PS IRM CLU, showcases an impressive trio of features—an expansive date window, moon phase, and day of the week indications— all of which can change simultaneously within just 18 milliseconds. This caliber also includes six patents concerning its innovative components, such as a tangential brake and dual-function spring mechanism, which aim to ensure a precise alignment of the date and comprehensive flexibility in corrections at any given moment.
Consistent with the Nautilus Ref. 5712, the platinum model maintains a familiar layout, featuring a date and moon phase indicator subdial positioned between 6 and 8 o’clock, and a seconds subdial located between 4 and 5 o’clock, but notably omitting the power reserve indicator. Two additional timepieces in the collection, the Ref. 5821/1A and Ref. 5821/1AR, are time-only models that share similar dials to the Nautilus 5711, with a standard date window at 3 o’clock. The Ref. 5821/1A, measuring 45 by 8.3 mm, is crafted from steel and features an olive green dial, while the Ref. 5821/1AR includes steel and 18-karat rose gold construction with a navy dial. Both colorways have previously graced models from the Nautilus and Aquanaut collections, showcasing Patek Philippe’s commitment to blending elegance with sporty aesthetics in this current lineup.
The initial reactions to the leak were far from favorable. On renowned vintage watch specialist and influencer Mike Nouveau’s Instagram post regarding the leak, comments were mixed, with responses like “It’s just a more square Nautilus. I’m not sure if I like it or not lol” and “It’s bed time—thanks for giving me a new nightmare.” A more accurate observation came from @watcheskick: “How many here will comment it’s ugly but text their ADs immediately to get on the wait list?” This sentiment reflects the enduring allure of Patek Philippe, especially the Nautilus, which has long waitlists, even as demand has slightly receded from the frenzied pandemic peak. While the Cubitus may not go off the bat with equivalent desirability as its predecessor, it is highly likely that eager clients will still find it challenging to secure one.
Addressing concerns about the inevitable comparisons to the Nautilus, Stern is far from apprehensive. He admits, “They’re right,” confirming that he indeed drew inspiration from both the Nautilus and Aquanaut collections when conceptualizing the Cubitus. He also looked back at the brand’s historical pieces, highlighting some previous square-shaped models. Stern fondly recalls a creation geared towards the 1599, which was the most intricate case crafted until now. He even explored square watches from other brands for inspiration, such as the Monaco by TAG Heuer, but found them impractical due to their thickness. The primary motivation for Stern was simply the desire to create a square timepiece, leading to the birth of the Cubitus—this vision, while seemingly straightforward, evolved over several years.
To set the stage for this new release, Stern strategically adjusted Patek Philippe’s production of the Nautilus last year and made the decision to discontinue the 5711 model in 2021. When questioned about whether he was concerned that the Cubitus would create additional hype around the Nautilus, he confidently stated, “No, because it’s already done.” He noted that the number of Nautilus watches produced this year will remain consistent into the next year, indicating a calculated approach by the brand to prevent future supply chain complications. To add further context, he explained that the company has scaled back its new model introductions from a range of 20 to 30 down to just 15 annually.
But how does the Cubitus actually look and feel in person? The answer is that it is undeniably more appealing when worn. Admittedly, it does share strong visual similarities with the Nautilus. Observing a colleague wearing a Nautilus side by side with the Cubitus highlights just how closely related they are—more than the leaked images would lead one to believe. Despite its 45 mm case size, the watch feels unexpectedly compact and comfortable on the wrist, making its two-tone presence enticing. Our speculation points to the olive green time-only model drawing significant interest; however, the platinum variant is poised to attract serious collectors who appreciate its heft and luxurious craftsmanship.
Regardless of the opinions on its design, the Cubitus is destined to capture attention and stand out in the luxury watch arena. If it piques your interest, be prepared for an uphill battle to acquire one, as access may remain limited to Patek Philippe’s select clientele. Stern has hinted that the collection aims to engage a younger demographic yet recognizes that newcomers to the brand will view Patek Philippe as a highly aspirational label. “The first batches will go to all the VIPs and top collectors,” Stern admits candidly. These elite clients will undoubtedly communicate their desire to be the first to own a Cubitus, and the retailers will likely accommodate them. Although Patek Philippe is embarking on bold new ventures, the debut of the Cubitus appears to be a carefully orchestrated endeavor.
For more stunning visuals of the Patek Philippe Cubitus Collection, click here.
