A new chapter begins at Missoni . The spotlight falls on veteran designer Alberto Caliri, who steps in to lead the brand’s creative vision after Filippo Grazioli’s departure following a two-year tenure.
Grazioli’s exit marks the conclusion of his ambitious attempt to modernize the signature aesthetic of Missoni, which is renowned for its vibrant colors and intricate patterns. The switch to Caliri, who has a rich history within the brand, is seen as a strategic move to realign Missoni with its core values. According to the company, this transition is part of their commitment to a lifestyle-focused direction for the brand’s future.
For many years, Caliri served as a trusted advisor to Angela Missoni before stepping into the role of interim creative director in 2021. He later redirected his efforts towards developing the brand’s home collection, where his intimate knowledge of Missoni’s legacy allowed him to explore its rich textures and vibrant colors.
The decision to assign a single creative director to oversee all aspects of the brand is likely a strategic and sound one. Caliri possesses the expertise and artistic sensibility necessary to elevate and harmonize Missoni’s offerings. In contrast, Grazioli, who previously worked with industry giants like Martin Margiela and Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy, attempted to steer the brand towards a modern aesthetic. However, his vision ultimately diverged from the foundational elements that define Missoni.
Grazioli initiated a promising direction with an emphasis on a cleaner and sexier interpretation of Missoni’s knits, which may have been the initial appeal that secured him the role under CEO Livio Proli. His early collections stripped back the traditional layering techniques to present a sleeker silhouette. Yet, his creative pursuit took a more experimental turn, exemplified by the Spring/Summer 2025 collection, which reinterpreted Missoni’s iconic zigzag patterns into three-dimensional forms reminiscent of the works of Issey Miyake and Maurizio Galante.
Nevertheless, Grazioli’s tenure fell short due to a limited appreciation for color and a reluctance to embrace the brand’s beloved patterns. His approach tended to reduce Missoni’s rich design language to merely its zig-zag and fiammato motifs, overshadowing the broader creative potential rooted in its heritage. Additionally, his lack of experience with textiles led him to treat knitwear as if it were a standard fabric, missing the heart of what makes Missoni’s knitwear iconic.
While Grazioli brought undeniable talent to the table, the ultimate responsibility for the brand’s misalignment during his leadership rests with the decision-makers who brought him on board.
As Caliri takes the helm, he represents a return to the brand’s storied roots and the complex narratives woven into its fabric. Under his guidance, there is hope for a revitalization of Missoni that highlights its multifaceted heritage and artistic richness, steering clear of the overly simplistic approach that characterized recent collections.
